Besides the pavlova, there’s probably no food more quintessentially Kiwi than the meat pie. From mince & cheese to chicken tikka masala, New Zealanders of all stripes have put their spin on this classic snack. In fact, we each eat about 15 pies every year—that’s three more than our Aussie cousins!
Like many Kiwi food favourites, the meat pie got its start far from our shores. Let’s take a look at how the meat pie came to be and its journey into New Zealand hearts and stomachs.
The early days of meat pies
Meat pies are a European invention, with roots going back to ancient Greece and Rome. Pastry shells made by combining flour and water were filled with meat and cooked under coals. The wealthier you were, the better the meat you had to fill your pie. Some Romans even served seafood pies during dinner.
Savoury pies were introduced to England by the Romans. They were filled with local meats, including duck and magpie pigeon. Interestingly, the “pie” in magpie might have given the food its name. Not only were these birds sometimes baked into a pie, but they’re also known for randomly collecting objects—like how pie filling is often a collection of different ingredients.
Not quite the pies we love
Medieval street vendors selling pies were a common sight throughout Europe. Just like today, they were viewed as a convenient take-away food. They were also affordable, and often the only meat the poor could afford.
Of course, the meat wasn’t always up to the standards that we would expect nowadays. Spices like nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon gave pies flavour, but also disguised the taste of tainted meat. Cooks sometimes skimped on the amount of meat they used, packing the filling with more vegetables, currants or dates.
Pie pastry was also a bit different than what we eat today. Crusts were thicker and acted as a container to help preserve the meat inside for days or even weeks. It wasn’t typically eaten by wealthy people, who often gave pie crusts to their servants, the poor or their dogs to eat. When a pie was finished, the pastry was sometimes crumbled and used to thicken broths or stews.
Coming to New Zealand
Meat pies made their New Zealand debut soon after the British arrived. Our earliest mention of the food is found in an 1863 newspaper ad. Much like today, pies could be found in just about any bakery, as well as in street carts catering to workers looking for a takeaway lunch or dinner.
Of course, Kiwis were keen to make the meat pie our own. We quickly came up with our own unique flavours, like steak & cheese and the classic mince. Today’s pies reflect our multiculturalism and changing food preferences. Flavours like butter chicken and curry are popular, along with vegetarian and vegan varieties.
Kiwis have continued to take our pies very seriously. The first Bakels Supreme Pie Awards were held in 1996 to recognise the best pies in New Zealand. What started as a small competition soon grew into one the biggest food awards in the country!
Fast food takeover
The humble meat pie has remained a favourite even as new takeaway options came to New Zealand. American fast food chains, like McDonalds and Pizza Hut, were introduced to Kiwis in the 1970s. Suddenly, the meat pie needed to beef up in order to compete.
Ready-made pies were introduced to the frozen food aisle, as well as the commercially produced varieties often sold in bakeries and petrol stations today. We even got our own fast food chain—Georgie Pie—to help fill our stomachs on the go. Georgie Pie was even the home of New Zealand’s first drive-through, beating those international chains at their own game!
With all these American restaurants coming to New Zealand, it only seems fair that we take our meat pies to them. Kiwi-style pie shops are popping up in the States and changing Americans’ tastes. In a country where the word “pie” brings to mind things like apple and pumpkin, teaching Kiwi pie etiquette—tomato sauce is OK, eat it like a sandwich, and always blow on the pie—is essential.
Meat pies will no doubt continue to be a part of New Zealand’s food identity for years to come. As our nation grows and changes, we can’t wait to see what flavours are cooked up next!
Hungry for more? Discover the history of New Zealand' favourite takeaway meal - fish & chips!
About Author: Momentum Life is a leading provider of Life insurance and Funeral insurance in New Zealand.
Sources
Food Standards Australia New Zealand, Meat Pies
Culture Trip, A Brief History of the New Zealand Meat Pie
ASHET, The Meat Pie: Australia’s Own Fast Food
Pieawards.nz
FMCG Business, Get ready for the NZ Pie Awards!
NZ Herald, It’s back! Georgie Pie returns to town
Stuff, Americans puzzled then wowed by Kiwi meat pies
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